by Mary Holland, The New York Post
Few neighborhoods better represent Los Angeles’ newfound commercial and cultural vibrancy quite like its historic downtown.
Anchored by the Staples Center and set a few miles east of the Sunset Strip, this once-forgotten district has had a cool, stylish makeover — with new hotels, shopping, restaurants and cultural spots. The regeneration of Downtown LA didn’t happen overnight; cleaning up a gritty inner-city area took time. But today downtown buzzes with a 24-hour vibe reminiscent of Soho or South Beach. Here’s what to do the next time you’re in town.
Start your morning with a coffee from G&B at the landmark, nearly century-old Grand Central Market.
There, its open-air, 360-degree coffee bar serves award-winning java that will wow even the snootiest coffee snobs. Throughout the market, look for a mix of new and classic food stalls, some of which have been around since the ’50s. Go early to beat the crowds — though there’s always a line at the naughtily named (and much-hyped) Egg Slut. Brave the queue for their beloved brioche-bunned sandwiches, or instead, make your way to Knead, where Grand Central Market’s most underrated breakfast sandwich awaits: over-easy eggs, fontina cheese, tomato jam and arugula wedged between two buttery slices of toast.
Once sated, head for the newest — and the most heart-pounding — addition to downtown, the OUE Skyspace LA atop the US Bank Tower. It’s America’s tallest building west of Chicago. This open-air observation deck has panoramic views of the city — from the Hollywood sign all the way to the Pacific. If you aren’t afraid of heights, try OUE’s split-level Skyslide, a translucent glass pipeline that transports brave visitors between the building’s 70th and 69th floors.
If all that adrenaline has made you hungry, head to B.S. Taqueria, the new brick-and-mortar Mexican spot from local pop-up king Ray Garcia. Equal parts cocktail lounge and upmarket taco joint, Garcia’s simple and straightforward menu includes highlights such as clam and lardo tacos followed by crisp churros for dessert — along with ample tequila, mezcal and cool Tecates.
A few streets away you’ll find California’s largest book and record store, The Last Bookstore. Even if you’ve moved on to ebooks and tablets, the shop is a wonderful space to get lost and discover delightful eccentricities, such as its horror vault — which houses a selection of cult horror books.
Nothing better symbolizes Downtown’s ascent than the Broad Museum, which opened last year. The museum is free, which means lines can snake around the block. (Pro tip: pre-book tickets online.) But the wait is worth it. Inside, you’ll find classic works, such as Andy Warhol’s “Twenty Jackies” and “Three Marilyns.” While the gallery has a phenomenal permanent collection, it also has rotating exhibitions by blue-chip artists and photographers including “Cindy Sherman: Imitation of Life,” which runs through early October.
Had enough art? Then head to Redbird for dinner, where chef Neal Fraser (a native Angeleno) serves new American fare — think fresh scallops with fava beans and duck with wild rice and cherries. The food here might be the highlight, but the beautiful, historic setting is almost as impressive. Housed in a beautifully updated rectory in the oldest cathedral in California, Redbird is tasty proof that Downtown LA has really cleaned up its act.
Staying over? Then consider the Standard hotel, which inhabits the former Superior Oil headquarters and whose 2002 opening was a harbinger of more change to come (from $219). Although much of the building’s interiors have been updated, the marble-clad walls, office elevators and “Mad Men”-esque rooms are reminders of the building’s Mad Men-era past. There’s a ping-pong room and a chic ’50s-style restaurant, but the real clincher is the rooftop, complete with a bar and heated pool with prime downtown views.
Or, for something completely different, head for the superbly cool Line Hotel in bordering Koreatown — with industrial-style rooms whose floor-to-ceiling views face either Hollywood or downtown (from $232). The hotel restaurant, Roy Choi’s Commissary, is set in a eye-popping greenhouse next to the pool and is, perhaps, the most Instagrammed restaurant in all of LA. Guests also have access to the Break Room 86, a superbly cool speakeasy where you can rent private karaoke rooms.
